Surface design transforms fabric through painting, printing, dyeing, stitching, embellishing, and other techniques to create unique colors, textures, and patterns. 


Color and embellishment have been added to fabric for thousands of years: dyeing dates back to around 10,200 BC, and embroidery originated in the Iron Age. Throughout the ages, a wide variety of textile techniques have been used to add visual interest and express creativity. Today, digital options and new products keep expanding the possibilities.


Keep reading for your introduction to the world of surface design! Hint: Use the links above to jump to the sections you're most interested in.

Materials and Tools:

  • Fabric suitable for the project and compatible with your chosen colorants and embellishments.
  • Colorant options: dyes, paints, inks, fabric markers …
  • Applicators: brushes, stamps, brayers …
  • Embellishments: thread, beads, buttons, sequins, found objects  ...

Terminology & Techniques:

  • Brayer: A tool with a hard roller used to apply a thin, even layer of ink or paint and to smooth glued surfaces and remove air bubbles.
  • Drawing: Hand-draw on fabric with fabric pencils, fabric pens, and/or fabric markers. Using Inktense on Fabric. Or, use fabric sealant, extender, or textile medium, and/or heat setting to make your designs with regular colored pencils and Sharpies permanent. How to Get Permanent Marker to Stay on Fabric.
  • Dyeing: Visit our Dyeing resource for information about adding color to fabric with dyes.
  • Embellishing is adding decorative elements to a textile. Embellishment techniques include embroidery, beading, appliqué', fabric manipulation (including pleats, tucks, and smocking), and adding components (including lace, sequins, buttons, and found objects).   
  • Image Transfer: You can transfer an image to fabric using iron-on transfer paper or by using a gel medium like Modge Podge. 2 Ways to Transfer an Image to Fabric.
  • Marbling: Floating paints or inks on the surface of a thickened liquid and then transferring to fabric results in unique patterns. Marbling Fabric.
  • A motif is a recurring pattern element in a design. 
  • Painting is applying paint directly to fabric with a brush or applicator. Specialized fabric paints or acrylic paints mixed with an extender medium are generally used. 
  • Printing is applying color with pastes or inks in specific patterns or designs. There are many printing methods, including:
  • Direct printing is  applying an image or pattern onto fabric without using an intermediate step like a transfer film or stencil.
  • Cyanotypes: A surface coated with a chemical mixture is exposed to sunlight (or another source of ultraviolet light), causing a chemical reaction. Covered/unexposed areas leave a blue-toned print. How to Make Cyanotype Prints on Fabric.
  • Digital printing uses inkjet technology to transfer digital designs onto fabric surfaces. 6 Techniques for Printing on Fabric at Home.
  • Ecoprinting uses natural pigments from plants like leaves, flowers, and bark to create unique, one-of-a-kind prints on fabric. Plant materials are bundled with a fabric, and the bundle is steamed to transfer the plant's shape and color onto the surface. 
  • Discharge printing uses a chemical agent to remove the dye from the fabric, effectively "bleaching" the design. Discharge Printing on Fabric.
  • Monoprinting: Paint or ink is used to create an image on a smooth surface, which is then transferred to fabric. Monoprints are non-repeatable. A gelatin or gelli print is a type of mono-printing that uses a flexible, reusable plate. Gel Printing on Fabric - 3 Ways to Amazing.
  • Relief printing: Non-image areas are cut away from a raised surface, which is then inked and pressed onto fabric to transfer the image. 
  • Block printing specifically refers to the materials used to carve the design, like wood, linoleum, or rubber blocks. Stamping is a form of block printing. Block Printing Basics: Inking and Printing on Fabric.
  • Collagraph printing: A relief plate is created by gluing various materials onto a rigid surface, like a board or cardboard, which is then inked and pressed onto fabric to transfer the image.
  • Stenciling produces images when ink or paint is applied through a cutout design.
  • Screen printing: A design is transferred to a screen, then ink is pressed through the open areas of the mesh onto the fabric using a squeegee. How to Screen Print on Fabric.
  • Stencil printing: A stencil is cut with the desired design and placed on the fabric. Ink or dye is then brushed, daubed, or sprayed over the stencil to transfer the design to the fabric.
  • A repeat or tile is the smallest unit of a design that, when repeated, creates a seamless, all-over print on fabric without any jarring or obvious breaks. 
  • Silk dye painting uses resists like wax or gutta to define and isolate design areas and specialized dyes to paint on stretched silk fabric. Heat setting is required to make designs permanent.My 4 Favorite Silk Painting Techniques.
  • Stitching can be added by hand or machine. Visit our Embroidery and Sewing resources for more information about these techniques. 

Process:

  • Add background color to your base fabric, if desired.
  • Add color, pattern, and texture using one or multiple textile techniques -  in repeatable patterns, in individual non-repeating motifs, or layered in collage fashion,
  • Finish your project:
  • Save digital designs and print on fabric, if desired.
  • For non-digital designs, heat-set and/or handwash and dry, as appropriate.

Variations:

  • None.

FAQ's:

  • Is there a difference between surface design and mixed media? Mixed media is a broader term that is characterized by the use of multiple materials and techniques. Surface design specifically relates to textiles and may or may not incorporate multiple materials and techniques. So, surface design may be mixed media, but not all mixed media is surface design.
  • What is surface pattern design? Surface pattern design is primarily artwork for commercial products like wallpaper, wrapping paper, upholstery, quilting fabric, apparel fabric, and floor coverings. Many surface pattern designs are repeatable.

About This Resource:

This resource is intended to provide a broad overview of surface design - enough to get you started on your surface design journey. It is not meant to be a comprehensive tutorial or listing of resources.


Please email if you have any suggested corrections, updates, or improvements!